The kindness of strangers...

Once upon a time there was a young woman who was working very hard under somewhat challenging conditions in the bush on the Liberian/Ivorian border.  She was working as an intern, which for those of you who don't know, means she made no money and was forced to support herself on meager savings from her previous part-time job as well as a small loan, while working just as hard (much harder in some ways) than everyone else around her... but she did it because she wanted to, she believed in the cause, and needed the knowledge and experience.
That same young woman had an amazing younger sister who was doing similar work, volunteering with the Peace Corps in Burkina Faso.  So she thought to herself that it would be a great idea to visit her sister before returning to the U.S.  In theory, being geographically close, it would be possible and the girls could adventure together for a little while on the wonderful continent of Africa!
And they lived happily ever after...

NOT!
Traveling in West Africa is no fairy tale... to say the least. Especially when you don't speak French!  Let's just start by saying I am NOT in Burkina Faso hanging out with my kid sister as was the plan.  Let's also get it out of the way that I may not be highly recommending Air Burkina to other travelers.  Suffice it to say that Banks, ATMs in particular, in Ivory Coast do not respond well to Mastercard debit cards (as opposed to Visa), traffic in Abidjan is comparable to New York City, and I still have no idea why I wasn't on that plane.

So here's a snapshot of how my day went just for your imagination:  First thing this morning after packing all my belongings into my two backpacks and heading for the door, Klara and I ended up forcing and breaking the wood on the door frame to her apartment which holds the deadbolt.  I guess there has been an issue with the locks and the door since the rebels broke into every apartment in the building during the crisis... and this morning we were trapped in the apartment due to this lock issue, which we decided after trying several other possible solutions, could only be solved by busting the door by using a fork, all our might in our shoulder ramming, and a little pushing and prying.  Neither one of us were "breaking and entering" specialists on our CVs, but we can now include those skills that we've gained here in Ivory Coast.  From there we were on the way to the office were I had less than an hour to get everything straightened out to leave and to have Klara do all my communicating with the logistics staff and driver because I needed to go to the bank, wanted to stop by the handicrafts market, and then get to the airport!
The driver, Bobby as I've gotten to know him, but Robert (in a proper French accent)... is a wonderful middle aged man, and beautiful Ivorian print shirt today, with a great smile who was NOT going to give up until he saw to it that I had CFA money in my hand!  He also refused to let me get run over, robbed, or downhearted in the process!  After visiting over 5 different banks, "talking" to all the top people in all their important offices, being laughed at, cooed over, given a million different instructions by a million different people... and finally ending up at a HUGE bank in the business district that had the mastercard logo and several ATMs, I really thought we were on to something.  Only to be disappointed yet again because at the very end of the process it would decline my card every time.  SO... we did the next best thing and exchanged my last $100 US dollars for a fee... so that I would have some money of some kind to take care of myself!  The best part about this disastrous search was that I got a tour of the Plateau district that I hadn't previously been able to see up close!  I got to see the African Development Bank, the French embassy, the gorgeous mosques and St. Paul's cathedral... however, by this time we had spent over two hours on this search and the whole time I had just wanted to go to the craft market that I had heard so much about - it was AMAZING... so many beautiful things (especially compared to Liberia that has NO souvenirs or craft items for sale at all)!  We had 15 min. I bought a few quick items - not an easy feat when you don't speak French and have to bargain for everything!!!  And we were off on a dash to the airport - still with an hour until my flight mind you.  Bobby dropped me at the door, I tipped him, we said our goodbyes and he was off on his way back to a busy day at the office!
I was directed to enter the Air Burkina office... where I was told the flight was already closed and I was too late.  I calmly explained that that was impossible as it was still an hour until bording and did anyone speak English as it was imperative that I talk to someone immediately!  The just kept saying no, no, no... impossible... and I kept saying ummmm, I don't think you understand... as my mind was reeling and I was realizing that I had done the most stupid thing of all - not only did I not have a phone, but I had not written down a single phone number of a single person working for DRC in Abidjan.  So not only could I not call the driver to come back, I couldn't call the office to tell them what happened, or ask for the address of the office to take a taxi... nothing!  Nor did I have Jessi's number to call her and tell her not to go to the airport in Ouaga and wait for me!  Stupid... I've traveled enough to know better!
So just as I'm starting to freak out as the lady is trying to call someone and they're not answering, and the one English speaking worker just keeps saying no, maybe tomorrow... but impossible today, too late... an angel appeared.
Ok, ok... reread that... yes I said an angel appeared right behind me.  God sent a middle aged, kind-hearted business man with perfect English, by the name of Maxima to my rescue.  He appeared behind me and started translating for me... told me he was supposed to be on the same plane... he was very calm which helped me a lot.  He seemed to realize they weren't going to do anything and had accepted it... as I was still asking questions like: wait a minute is the plane here?  is the problem my luggage, send it tom! and who can take me to that plane right now... wait are the people even on the plane yet?  did you overbook the plane?  why aren't the people with the "badge" that could take me to the plane not answering their phone?
As the realization began to sink in that whether because of fault of my own, the driver, the banks, or the airline (and I HIGHLY suspect the latter)... I was not going to Burkina today... I crumpled into the chair next toMaxima and quietly sighed and gave up the struggle.  As I was saying a short prayer not to start crying... and to please let there be another flight soon... that I didn't have to pay for... the man looked at me and said simply "how can I help?"  I told him I was still trying to figure that out but thank you... and he and the woman behind the counter began to ask questions... why are you here? who are you working for?  why don't you speak french? you don't have a phone or any numbers?  where are you staying?
Immediately when I told them I had been working in Liberia with Ivorian refugees everything changed... they both told me thank you... thank you for helping our people.... people you don't even know... you come from halfway around the world to help us, thank you.  It was an amazing moment of humanity.
As I sat there and realized it wasn't the end of the world - she was putting both of us, and some others on the flight tom. morning - I also contemplated the adventure that was placed before me.  I had no internet access, no address, and no phone numbers.  I thought about just staying in a hotel near the airport... I thought about taking a taxi to the apartment because I knew where that was and hoping the cleaning lady would be there to open the door and/or to call Klara.  I thought about sleeping at the airport (which is not allowed I found out).
As they continued to ask questions, and realized Jessi worked for the Peace Corps, the man got out his phone and began calling his contact in Ouagadougou to go the Peace Corps office there and inquire for Jessi to let her know what had happened!  Seriously!  Then they began asking in what part of town the DRC office was and as I began to tell them my limited knowledge... to my surprise, they seemed like it was possible.  The man asked me if I would like to try taking a taxi (at least a 30 min. ride with some very small streets for which I had no clue of the names, mind you) or his wife and nephew were out in his personal car and they could drop me.  What?!!!!!  This kindness from a stranger... many people would have still been worried or concerned... however in my travels I have learned that I'm a pretty darn good judge of character... that and the airline woman vouched for him and said he flies all the time and that it would be safe.
People say this country isn't safe... especially for a white woman... blah blah blah... no matter how many trucks with "soldiers" and rebels I see... their guns at the ready, etc. I will always argue there are good people everywhere and generally in my experience in West Africa, people want to protect the foreigner.  Of course, Maxima's nice suit, new car, the fact that his wife was with him, as well as his perfect English... all played a major part as well, don't get me wrong!
After driving all the way across the city and trying to direct him to the best of my ability to the office, we were close, but couldn't quite find it... and with both of my bags I couldn't just have them drop me anywhere to find my own way.  He was so patient and just kept saying don't worry we will find it.  We ended up stopping at the red cross office because I knew they would know where to tell us to go - in fact in a city seemingly the size of Chicago, that I have been in for all of three days, I got him within 10 blocks of the office!
When I tried to thank him and tell him how much i appreciated what he had done - he said "you've done more... for my people... you don't have to do the work you do... and you didn't have to come here."   He continued to offer to give me a ride in the morning since we would be on the same flight, and as I assured him that would not be necessary... we said our goodbyes and I was back where I had started the day 6 hours earlier!

It was not until I just sat down and really thought about everything that had happened... that I fully realized the blessing of Maxima in my life today and how grateful I was to be back among familiar faces!  So grandma, those guardian angels that you're always praying will surround me in my travels... it definitely paid off today!

It's so easy to see the bad, the evil in the world... it's super easy to judge a country by it's cover (if you will)... and then one day, one moment you are again reminded that there are amazing people in the world who have the best of intentions and who are more than willing to go out of their way for a fellow human being!

So I'll try again first thing in the morning and be the first one in line for that darn plane!  For now I'm tired and hungry and hoping they'll be ready to leave the office soon :)
Keep praying... it obviously helps!
Kate